Si, Sevilla!!

“Sevilla’s moto appears all over the city.  It consists of two syllables; “No” and “Do”, with a skein of wool between them which looks like the figure 8.  It’s a play on words.

The Spanish for skein is “medeja”.  It is said that in the 11^th century, King Alfonso the Wise decided that the warring had gone on too long and made a truce with the Moors.  His hot-blooded son, Sancho, rebelled and started a civil war.  Most of Spain sided with his son.  But not Sevilla.  To thank the City, King Alfonso declared “no ma dejado”, which means “you did not desert me”.  The phrase stuck and the motto “No Madeja Do” was created. “

The city I've always wanted to visit, and have had at least two opportunities to do so which for some reason fell through, is Sevilla, Andalusia.  (pronounced "Sev-ee-ya").  This time around I made it THE priority for this trip abroad.  For those of you who don't know, Sevilla is the capital of Andalusia and the province of Sevilla in southern Spain.  Sevillanos will boast that once you've been to their city, there will be no need to go anywhere else - their city has it all!  Delicious dining, cultural performances, stylish shopping, never ending nightlife, fresh fruit and vegetables all grown in the warm Sevillian sunshine... Sevilla has it all.  Long had I heard stories of extremely hot temperatures mixed with extremely warm-hearted people, beautiful flamenco dancers, and romantic "Don Juan's" at every place you walk into.  Well I am here to tell the truth about these reports: they are all correct!

Flying in on a Wednesday afternoon, I step off the tarmac and am hit by a waft of heat that answered my most immediate question: "How hot does it really get in Sevilla?"  I don't mind though, as I have been prepared for this change in physical and mental attitude.  I feel the corners of my mouth start rounding up into a smile as I walk through to the baggage claim, grabbing my suitcase as it comes off the conveyor exactly as I'm walking up to it.  Uh huh, definitely this is good timing.  I'm definitely supposed to be here right now, I think to myself.

When in Rome, do like the Romans.  I always stick by this moto as it helps me to adjust to different cultures and mentalities.  I quickly adapt to the loud, energetic and happy mood around me, noting the obvious difference between those living in Barcelona and those living in Sevilla.  Barcelona is a cosmopolitan city, and people from all over the world live there.  Sevilla on the other hand feels absolutely authetic, like the people seem to have been born from the warmth of the earth itself.  There is a pride here that has nothing to do with arrogance at all.  It is very real.  The people are extremely social, unafraid, and strong.

I wait in a long line-up at the airport for a cab to take me to my very cool hotel, Hotel San Gil.  I had booked this place because the reviews I read were really good, but also because it wasn't that expensive at all and I good a good deal on it through Expedia.  The reviews say it's a 3-star hotel, but it is not.  It is a 4-star hotel by far, a boutique hotel on the edge of the centre of town, about a 20 minute walk to all the attractions.  My German friend, Alok, is waiting for me at my hotel, as he has arrived two days ahead of me and already has a head-start on some of the sightseeing.  It is good to see him and we give one another a warm hug.  I haven't seen Alok since 2009, but we have become good friends, skyping about once a month for the last two years.  I am glad that he has been able to re-arrange his vacation schedule to make it to Sevilla at the same time as me.  I am excited when I get in, but still really jet-lagged.  I take a quick siesta in my cool, air-conditioned room which is located on the back side (the newly constructed and quiet side of the building), and then quickly get ready to head out with Alok. 

The centre of Sevilla is considered to have 5 neighbourhoods which are worthy of seeing: Santa Cruz, Centro, Triana, Almeda, and La Macarena.  I am staying in La Macarena, a barrio full of narrow streets and old churches, and tons of local shopping.  I immediately start to get lost as I follow Alok through the winding street.  Luckily Alok's sense of direction is excellent, and with me always having my map in my hand, together we find our way through to the Centro.  I am immediately surprised at how lively the city is.  Even though it is 40 degrees outside, people of all ages are out wandering the streets, shopping, or standing at cerveceria's and eating tapas in groups.  There are plenty of tourists too, and I get the feeling that they have all accepted the heat of this city as easily as I have.  "We were warned, now bring it!"  I take pictures every couple of metres it seems, already feeling like I need to grab every second and contain it so that I never forget the sense of liveliness, the heat, the colours, the sounds.

Alok showed me around and commented about the history of the city, and I thought to myself  "Sheesh, you've learned this all in only two days??"  Then after a couple of hours of walking, we turned back towards the Macarena for a bite of dinner (tapas, of course) and a beverage (tinto de verano, of course).  I had read in my guide book that tapas bars are abundant and the way to go for quick eats, and they weren't exaggerating.  According to stories, a tapa was originally just a small dish of food that a barman would place on top of your glass to keep the flies out of it!  Hence the name, which actually means "lid" in Spanish.  Some tapas only come in meda-racions (half a plateful) or racions (a plate full).  Normally, one only orders one or two tapas and they are content.  Eating huge portions just isn't the thing to do here, not like in Canada where we stuff our faces all day long.  Tapas bars are on every street, sometimes several of them in one block, and they are quick and delicious.  "El Ambigu" was said to serve "typical" tapas, which didn't mean they weren't being delicious and creative!  No way!  It was a very good introduction to tapas feasting in Sevilla, I'd say.  It was 10:00 pm and the sweat was still trickling down my back as we sat down at one of the outdoor tables.  Impromtu flamenco singing and clapping broke out with a small group of friends at a bar across the street.  Ah, Sevilla.

El Ambigu

mmm, Tinto de Verano and tapas

The next morning I was up bright and early and ready to start ticking off my list of sights to see.  Alok met me for breakfast, and then together we walked back into town because I had made up my mind to see the Cathedral, Giralda (the tower within the Cathedral), and the Reales Alcazares Palace and Gardens.  In Sevilla you have to get things done before the siesta hours, which are 2:00 pm - 5:00 pm, because it is just too dang hot to stay out in the middle of the afternoon.  We walked to the Santa Iglesia Cathedral which pretty much dominates Sevilla's skyline.  We got there just before it officially opened to the public, so it was relatively quiet and Alok sat down to attend a mass while I wandered about aimlessly taking photos.  Of course I think it's important to go and visit such such an edificio, but I can't stay long in grand cathedrals as I start to feel dominated by the very large and invisible hand of God, which makes me just want to run outside screaming!  But the truth is that it was worth the squirming. 

 

After that we went (literally) across the street and started our tour of the Alcazar, Sevilla's royal palace and immaculate gardens that was built by Pedro I, king of Castile, during the 14th century.  It was a wonderful maze of architectural gardens and beautifully tiled rooms with high arching ceilings that had a Moorish influence even though at the time the Moors had long been conquered in Sevilla.  Apparently King Juan Carlos I and Queen Sophia of Spain still stay there whenever they visit Sevilla, although as tourists we would never have been allowed that deep into the palace. 

Alcazar Palace and Gardens

It was starting to get really hot out, and Alok wanted to go and view the weapons gallery.  Me though, my feet were getting super tired and I knew I'd just saved enough energy to go back to the Cathedral and climb the Giralda - the tower overlooking the entire city.  This one thing I knew I just had to do.  For some reason, without seeing Sevilla from above and absorbing the entire city in one view, I would never feel like I was really there.  After dreaming of coming to this city for so long, it all just felt a little too surreal!  So we separated and off I went amidst the masses of tourists and into the sunshine and heat which felt strangely hotter than the day before.  Or maybe it was just me and my thin Canadian blood?  I didn't know, but I forged on climbing the ramp all the way to the top of the Giralda.  It was so worth it!  This for me was the best of the three top sights to see in Sevilla.  It looked like to me still like it could have looked back in the days of Don Juan, the famous Seducer of Sevilla.  Sweat dripping down my face, I stood at all four sides and took pictures of the landscape, enamoured by every detail of it. 

By 2:00 pm it usually is way too hot to stay outside anymore, but most of the locals meet up at a tapas bar or Cerveceria to have a quick bite to eat, a beer, and some conversation with their friends.  Sevilla is one of the most liveliest city's I've ever been to, and even during siesta hours when the sun is beating down they are energetic and happy.  I was starving and searched for the first tapas place I could find.  Fortunately they are all over the place and one never has to search for long, nor do they have to wait for long to eat.  When I first got there it was impossible to find a vacant table, so I went up to the bar which was double-lined with people all talking loudly and shouting at the bartenders.  The way it's done here in Sevilla is to not worry so much about being polite, but to do whatever you can to get the attention of the waiter or bartender as quickly as you can, otherwise you won't get any service at all!  I watched the locals; they seemed to glide in without any problems and could be eating a hot tapa of calamari and drinking a cold glass of beer within a couple of minutes.  Well, it's like I said before: when in Rome, do like the Romans!  So I squeezed myself in at the bar, flagged a bartender and ordered my small lunchtime meal.  Within a minute I had both an orange Fanta and a little dish of calamari sitting infront of me.  What a way to go! The key here is not to be too concerned when the waiter looks stressed.  He IS stressed but that's not your problem. It takes a certain kind of man to have a job serving at a tapas bar.  He's a multi-tasking and can manoeuver fast.  He's dang good at it!  I love the manner in which lunchtime is done here, and it's always fun just to be in the thick of the action, feeling the hot vibe of the Sevillanos.  This is how it's done in the early evenings after siesta as well, before dinner time which is normally eaten about 10:00 pm.  All the locals come out of the woodwork after their work day is finished to continue their socializing and drinking and eating all at the same time.  Every single plaza in the city is full of people of all ages, and it is loud and social without being obnoxious or rude anyone.  It is good fun!  In Sevilla they go out late, and they stay out to the early hours of the morning.  Heck, in Canada we'd start a riot if we were as happy and lively as the Sevillanos!  It must be the sunshine that gives them all the extra energy they have!

Standing around eating tapas at lunchtime at a Cerveceria

Watch this video I took of the bartenders at a bar in Plaza San Salvador.  They are awesome!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpvq3K5qHIA

Alok and I enjoying evening beverages and tapas in Plaza San Salvador on a Thursday eve

Plaza San Salvador 

The place to meet up with your friends any night of the week! 

It's very loud and happy! 

Watch this little clip below so you can hear it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMSKe6JCG4Y

Later that evening and feeling tipsy, I decided that "tonight" would be as good a time as any to go to Casa Anselma, a place I'd heard about that was over on the other side of the bridge, in Triana, for great impromptu flamenco.  As soon as I walked in the place I knew I'd be staying all night.  The doors didn't open until 11:00 pm, and I got there just before midnight.  All the seats in the house were already taken and it was standing room only.  I went up to the bar and grabbed another delicious glass of Stella, and then went to secure a space of my own standing in the back row of the house.  There is no air conditioning in these little places, but they have several fans that blare wind at you and provide an adequate amount of breeze.  Even with all the fans the sweating never stops.  Anselma in a local Sevillana who is famous in her own right.  Casa Anselma doesn't even have a sign over it's entry - it doesn't need one to attract customers.  Her place packs out every night of the week mostly with local enthusiasts, but there were a couple of tourists like me, too.  You get into the place and Anselma, this short, beautiful, strong woman with big red lips and a boistrous voice, makes certain that everyone has a drink in their hand (or two!).  When she is sufficiently satisfied that everyone is well on their way, the musicians come out and start playing flamenco music with their guitars and singing.  The crowd knows some of the lyrics because traditional Spanish songs are also being played, and they sing along when they can.  Others clap flamenco style, and keep a fast beat making me wonder how the heck they can make their hands move so fast!  Me, I just kept on drinking and taking photos.  The atmosphere gets really heated really fast.  Sweating doesn't help to calm the mood, it only makes people hotter!  Well, you know as I said before, "When in Rome... "  It wasn't too long before a handsome Sevillano was on my shoulder offering to buy me another beer.  I said "yes" of course, which, in Seville, gives him full access to me for the night (apparently).  The happy crowd, the music, the sweating... if you want to know the truth I cried for a good part of the night.  Not full out bawling, no way!  But my eyes misted over and I dabbed at them frequently, that's how happy I was.  I was so moved, so charged with passion by just being there in this packed little place where the people were ALIVE!  To sit in an auditorium and listen to traditional and flamenco music anywhere else is just so boring in comparison, I can make that strong statement clearly now.  When you go to an informal flamenco bar in Sevilla (and most likely all of southern Spain), the people are charged with electricity and everyone hoots and hollars and gets involved.  But it wasn't so much flamenco as it was "Sevillana", and even if you aren't one of the few who dances The Sevillanas (a couple's folk dance that can be light and fun when two women dance together, but also a little flirtacious and seductive when a man and woman dance it), you can still feel every bit of passion and heat that's being created.  I truly felt I was more myself there that night than I do going out in Vancouver.  This is the type of socializing I need to do! 

This little link gives a brief description of The Sevillanas dance (which isn't really flamenco at all!)

http://www.flamencoshop.com/sevillanas/home.htm

At the end of the evening, the musicians closed with a traditional song to the Madonna, called Ave Maria.  It was the only time all night that the house was quiet, and this time I couldn't stop my emotions.  My fellow companion for the evening wiped my tears from my face and then kissed me passionately on the mouth.  And me, I just let him. 

A packed bar at Casa Anselma in Triana

Anselma sings a traditional Flamenco style song

A member of the audience, who obviously not Sevillana, becomes taken with happiness and passion, and gets up on the floor.  The music continues, the crowd gets more rambunctious!

These two videos show the atmosphere of the place and are only a couple of minutes in length.

(I have to apologize but the lighting was pretty low!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--odkLsVok4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caAdAVngdiQ

a packed house

The handsome Sevillano buying another cervecza, and sweating

Although I was definitely a little worse for wear the next morning, I definitely thought it was worth it as it was a very memorable experiences.  That night out at the flamenco bar topped off everything that I've done so far in this city!  Oh, and by the way: the temperature has definitely been more than 40 degrees. On Thursday it was 43! Yesterday it was only 42!  This picture proves that I'm not exaggerating.

But I don't mind one bit.  The heat, the passion, the history and culture of this Andalucian city has won my heart over.  And this posting was only about the first two days of my journey here!  Dios Mio!  More to come soon!

Hasta entonces,

Charleen xo