Even though I am now writing this posting from my little dining room table, back home in my apartment in rainy Vancouver, I think it is worthwhile to say a few things about the conclusion of my recent trip back to Espana.
If I haven't mentioned it before, now is a good time to say thank you to my good friend, Alok, who joined me in Sevilla. We took in a lot of the sights together, and we also did a lot by ourselves. In the afternoons we'd meet up for luncheon tapas or hang out by the pool at my hotel, which was really the only place one could hang in the Andalusian heat. Alok has proven to be one of my greatest friends, a fellow who is both a spiritualist and a hedonist - a guy after my own heart. I think we've both supported one another through times where we were each questionioning our own paths, and it always helps to be able to bend the ear of someone who you know well and can trust. Alok is this kind of friend to me, and I love him dearly.
Each morning the bells on the Basilica de la Macarena would ring loudly and could easily be heard from inside my hotel room. It would bring a smile to my face every time, reminding me to stomp my feet on the ground or pinch myself so that I would know that I wasn't walking around in a dream. I felt so invigorated, so energized during my stay in Sevilla. Everything about the city is alive, as if vibrating to a happy tune that only Sevillanos can hear. Well, I could hear it too and was thrilled with each and every sight, smell, touch, person I encountered there. If Alok wasn't digging my pace, we'd simply meet up for a couple of hours here or there, grabbing a quick bite or a Tinto de Verano on the run. One afternoon, after a cool dip in the pool, we decided to try our hand at the city's transit system, and took a bus out to view the Plaza de Espana. At 5:00 in the afternoon I knew it would be ferociously hot out, but I wanted the light of the day to take pictures with, so Alok humoured me and came along for the fun of it.
Check out this video! Great acoustics at Plaza de Espana!
After the heat of the Plaza de Espana, Alok took me walking in cool shade of the Jardines de Murillo which were originally the orchards behind the Alcazar. The Jardines de Murillo border on a part of Sevilla's most famous barrios, Barrio Santa Cruz; the old Jewish Quarters. Alok and I had a find time wandering the maze of streets which most tourists to Sevilla will try to find some time to explore. Some of its streets were packed with tourists all vying for the best seat at an outdoor table, but it was easy to take a little detour down a vacant path where sometimes I could touch the buildings on either side of it simply by stretching out my arms! It was so cool to think of myself roaming the same streets that Christopher Columbus once did, and I could imagine the romantic Don Juan briskly walking through its alleyways or climbing over verandas to entice the ladies of Sevilla. Did you know that during the Spanish Golden Age, "Galanteadores" (Spanish for "gallants" or "seducers") were very common. No one can say for sure, but it is estimated that at that time over half of the women in some of the neighbourhoods were widowed or abandoned, and this was because of either war or colonization. I personally think that if temperatures in the 1500's were anything close to the same as they were here now in the early part of September 2011, it would not have been difficult to find a lovely damsel to play with each and every night. In Sevilla, well, it seems to be quite normal! Yay!
On my last day in Sevilla, I decided to do two last things: go over to the other side of the river to Triana to search for Ceramics, and go tour the Bullring!
And of course, you have to visit the Bullring...
After spending some time in Sevilla, I have to admit that I think watching a live bullfight would have been the icing on the cake! However, the fights are held only once each week, on Sunday afternoons at 5:30, and I had unknowingly booked my departure for 2:00 pm! Oh well, this I can definitely do next time!
To finish up my trip to Sevilla, Alok and I watched a semi-private flamenco show in the comforts of the garden of my hotel. Each member of the entourage was brilliant - a singer, guitar player and dancer. Alok and I sipped cava and ate a light meal of fresh bread, olives, melon with jamon, and queso while watching the performance. Afterwards he and I walked over to the Almeda de Hercules, which was created back in the 1500's, again during Sevilla's Golden Age. The Almeda de Hercules is probably one of Sevilla's liveliest plazas and it's full of cafes and bars, and even tiny playgrounds for all the kids who go with their parents and stay out till all hours of the night, too. It was only about a five minutes walk from my hotel.
Then I decided on one last hoorah, and went out to Triana again to seek out the best Sevillano bars. I went to one traditional bar where the band played flamenco, and then after an hour switched seats with another band. There were people of all ages out for this. In one corner of the room it very easily could have been my grandparents and their friends out for a night on the town, all dressed up and ready to dance. Beside me a younger woman who looked to be 21 or 22 years of age, all decked out and arm in arm with her cute boyfriend, both coming to have fun and be a part of what seemed to be a regular Saturday night party. I watched this for awhile by myself, and then after kicking around the neighbourhood for a while, towards the end of the night I wound up back at Casa Anselma's, where it was even more packed (and sweaty!) than it was two nights before!
I was sad to leave Sevilla but had to catch a flight to Ibiza. After all the walking I'd done during my time there, I was ready for some lazy beach time anyways. I know I'll return, and next time I think I'll stay a good long while, and really become a true Seviallana.
Love, Charleen xo
If I haven't mentioned it before, now is a good time to say thank you to my good friend, Alok, who joined me in Sevilla. We took in a lot of the sights together, and we also did a lot by ourselves. In the afternoons we'd meet up for luncheon tapas or hang out by the pool at my hotel, which was really the only place one could hang in the Andalusian heat. Alok has proven to be one of my greatest friends, a fellow who is both a spiritualist and a hedonist - a guy after my own heart. I think we've both supported one another through times where we were each questionioning our own paths, and it always helps to be able to bend the ear of someone who you know well and can trust. Alok is this kind of friend to me, and I love him dearly.
Alok and me at lunch at a Cerveceria
(notice how much wev are sweating? Yes, it was dang hot!)
The Basilica de la Macarena - right behind my hotel!
A 17th Century landmark
The Muralla -
a portion of the old fortified walls that once surrounded the city
still standing in The Macarena
One of the old gates
Sunbathing or finding shade by the rooftop pool
Quiet Parras Street during afternoon siesta
Although the architecture looks like it could be ancient, Plaza de Espana is really just a toddler of a monument which dates back to it's creation in 1929 for the Ibero-American Esposition, where it was used as the Spanish Pavillion. Inspired from the Renaissance, it is a row of pillars and towers portioned off into each region of Spain. There were plenty more tiles, archways and bold bright colours to amuse myself with, but 43 degrees felt like 50, as the Plaza is almost entirely made from concrete and has very little shade. Alok waited in the shade of its hallways while I wandered from one end to the other forcing myself to not mind the heat. I had prepared myself mentally for it.
I found Sevilla!
Check out this video! Great acoustics at Plaza de Espana!
After the heat of the Plaza de Espana, Alok took me walking in cool shade of the Jardines de Murillo which were originally the orchards behind the Alcazar. The Jardines de Murillo border on a part of Sevilla's most famous barrios, Barrio Santa Cruz; the old Jewish Quarters. Alok and I had a find time wandering the maze of streets which most tourists to Sevilla will try to find some time to explore. Some of its streets were packed with tourists all vying for the best seat at an outdoor table, but it was easy to take a little detour down a vacant path where sometimes I could touch the buildings on either side of it simply by stretching out my arms! It was so cool to think of myself roaming the same streets that Christopher Columbus once did, and I could imagine the romantic Don Juan briskly walking through its alleyways or climbing over verandas to entice the ladies of Sevilla. Did you know that during the Spanish Golden Age, "Galanteadores" (Spanish for "gallants" or "seducers") were very common. No one can say for sure, but it is estimated that at that time over half of the women in some of the neighbourhoods were widowed or abandoned, and this was because of either war or colonization. I personally think that if temperatures in the 1500's were anything close to the same as they were here now in the early part of September 2011, it would not have been difficult to find a lovely damsel to play with each and every night. In Sevilla, well, it seems to be quite normal! Yay!
a narrow lane in Santa Cruz
Plaza Dona Elvira -
one of the many cute squares in Santa Cruz
Restaurants mercifully mist their customers with cool water
Alok
Still sweating and smiling!
On my last day in Sevilla, I decided to do two last things: go over to the other side of the river to Triana to search for Ceramics, and go tour the Bullring!
Triana:
on the other side of the river it is the centre of the ceramic trade,
and packed full of trendy restaurants and fun bars
Shopping at Plaza de Altozano
Alfareria - "Ceramics Street"
And of course, you have to visit the Bullring...
Plaza de Toros - Sevilla
They were setting up for some event, hence all the tables.
It was amazing to realize that you are so close to the floor!
There wouldn't be a poor seat in the house
Inside the arena there is a museum, complete with the most famous of bull's heads!
Even the head of the MOTHER of one of the most famous bulls was mounted!
Sheesh.
After spending some time in Sevilla, I have to admit that I think watching a live bullfight would have been the icing on the cake! However, the fights are held only once each week, on Sunday afternoons at 5:30, and I had unknowingly booked my departure for 2:00 pm! Oh well, this I can definitely do next time!
To finish up my trip to Sevilla, Alok and I watched a semi-private flamenco show in the comforts of the garden of my hotel. Each member of the entourage was brilliant - a singer, guitar player and dancer. Alok and I sipped cava and ate a light meal of fresh bread, olives, melon with jamon, and queso while watching the performance. Afterwards he and I walked over to the Almeda de Hercules, which was created back in the 1500's, again during Sevilla's Golden Age. The Almeda de Hercules is probably one of Sevilla's liveliest plazas and it's full of cafes and bars, and even tiny playgrounds for all the kids who go with their parents and stay out till all hours of the night, too. It was only about a five minutes walk from my hotel.
A fantastic performance at Hotel San Gil
Two very cute Sevillano children, playing at Almeda de Hercules
One of the many bars in Triana
Then I decided on one last hoorah, and went out to Triana again to seek out the best Sevillano bars. I went to one traditional bar where the band played flamenco, and then after an hour switched seats with another band. There were people of all ages out for this. In one corner of the room it very easily could have been my grandparents and their friends out for a night on the town, all dressed up and ready to dance. Beside me a younger woman who looked to be 21 or 22 years of age, all decked out and arm in arm with her cute boyfriend, both coming to have fun and be a part of what seemed to be a regular Saturday night party. I watched this for awhile by myself, and then after kicking around the neighbourhood for a while, towards the end of the night I wound up back at Casa Anselma's, where it was even more packed (and sweaty!) than it was two nights before!
It's not difficult to meet and party with new friends in Sevilla!
Yolanda, Marco, Miguel, and me
Good times, good times!
I was sad to leave Sevilla but had to catch a flight to Ibiza. After all the walking I'd done during my time there, I was ready for some lazy beach time anyways. I know I'll return, and next time I think I'll stay a good long while, and really become a true Seviallana.
Love, Charleen xo
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