Sunday, September 25, 2011

Something Knew

I can't say exactly why, but I didn't feel as excited as I thought I would have been knowing that I was on my way back to Ibiza.  After all that day dreaming that I did about the place on an almost daily basis back in Vancouver, one would have thought I would have been way more excited as I boarded the plane with Alok.  Ibiza is Alok's home and so he was excited to be getting back to his life there.  I, on the other hand, was starting to realize that I didn't know exactly why I was going back to Ibiza.  I checked in with myself.  "Is it because of the parties?"  No, that's not the reason.  Even though the night clubs and the music (and therefore the parties) have always been a fun aspect to the island, I'd always maintained that one of the nicest times to be on Ibiza is when the night clubs have all closed, and there is a more relaxed and quiet feel to the island. 

Was is the endless variety of beaches, each with a different essence, and the warm, clear blue Mediterranean?  Well, if it was only about that then I guess I could have stayed in Barcelona for two weeks, couldn't I have?  Or I could have gone to any other number of places along the coast of Spain for that matter.

Was it the fabulous shopping and the cutting-edge fashions that seem to always start right there in Ibiza and then branch out into the rest of Spain, Europe, and maybe a couple of years later, Canada?

Or maybe it was those cute little restaurants and beach bars like no other place on the planet, all serving fresh seafood, and cold, fruity cocktails?  Perhaps it was the sunset, and the famous west-coast cafe's (like Cafe Del Mar or Cafe Mambo) where the entire island seemed to gather during the last hours of the day, everyone applauding the sun as it dips and dissolves beyond the horizon?  What was it that was really dragging me there?

As soon as the wheels of our Iberian Airlines flight touched down, I realized that going to Ibiza on my own, this time, had nothing to do with all those things that I love about the island.  With a sinking feeling, I realized it had everything to do with the memories of the times when I had travelled there several times with my ex.  It had everything to do with memories.  As I smelled the familiar, unique scents of the island - the salty sea air mixed with sage brush and sun-baked Balearic grass - my stomach dropped.  I realized that I was going to have a tough time here over the next four days, no matter how great all of the above were, if I didn't work this one little kink out of my reality and quick!

A planted a kiss on both of Alok's cheeks and off he went to his continue his life, his own path.  Me though, I continued to look for signs that suggested that I should not have come.  Like for instance, I knew that if my suitcase had gotten lost then I definitely shouldn't be there.  No luck with that one - my luggage appeared as rapidly and seamlessly as it had on all my other flights across the Atlantic and around the country.  Hmmm.  "Okay, I've got it!" I thought.  If I have difficulty at the car rental agency, then I will definitely KNOW FOR SURE that I shouldn't be here!  Alas, five minutes after arriving at the meeting point specifically detailed in my car rental voucher, along came the shuttle van to take me to the rental agency which was adjacent to the airport on the other side of the highway.  I was really searching for a quick answer to my gut feelings, trying hard to compartamentalize the nagging problem so I could just get on with having a good time and really start getting exciting about being back in a place that I had dreamt about every night.  Maybe it was the humidity? Yes, that's it, the humidity is making me feel all off!  It was about 30 degrees in Ibiza, but with the humidity it somehow made it feel hotter and harder to handle than 43 degrees in Sevilla.  Oh, I so just wanted to blame it on the humidity!

But I couldn't.  As soon as I got to my hotel (which wasn't completely ready for me when I got there... Oh!  It's a sign!), and layed down in the simple but cozy apartment I would call home for 4 nights, the cute little place on the west coast of the island that had views of the blue Mediterranean sparkling up at me and should have made anyone smile, and I rolled myself into a tight ball on my bed and had myself a good cry.   I chastised myself, wondering when I was ever going to get over the memories of the fun times I used to have when I visited the island, con espouso.  Well damnit, I'd come this far after all this time, and I was damned if I was going to let those old visions of my married life, and all the pain that came afterwards, ruin my trip!  No way! I kicked the bed and pounded the pillows!  Then I stepped into the ring and fought that demon right there on the spot I did!  That demon had me in a good head lock and was threatening to choke the life out of me when I made a lightning decision to tackle it, flip it on it's back, and beat the crap out of it myself instead!!  Well, at least I was able to get it into a position where I could tie it up in a ball and shove it back in the closet where it came from!  You are not ruining my trip here, damn demon!  So there!

And with that little inner quarrel out of the way, I jumped back into my little 6-speed, two door, Alfa Romeo, and took a long drive around the island, getting familiarized with the energy there again, the roads, the exits, the ronda's, and all the sights.  I was actually quite amazed to realize how second-nature the place was to me.  Almost like I'd never left.

Me and my Alfa Romeo
such an effin' cool car

My friend Ries from Holland, who you will all remember, at the last minute was able to re-arrange his work week to meet me on the island, and his flight was coming in at midnight.  I was really happy to see him again and excited that we were going to be taking in the Tiesto Closing Party at Privilege the next night!  Ries was dressed wayyyy too warmly when he got off the plane, and happilly stuffed his scarf and jacket away in his carry-on luggage, and unrolled the windows of the Alfa Romeo, taking in the the essence of the island as we drove back towards the west coast.

Ries was going to have only one day on the island, and so I knew I had to choose our activities well.  One thing about Ries will never change: the very first and most important thing for the day is to find a good cafe solo!  As we sat sipping our cafes, we giggled and gossiped and got caught up on all that had gone in one another's lives since the last time we'd seen one another - dinner in Amsterdam back in February, remember?  I told him about the things that I thought he should experience while he was here on the island, and ran the day's itinerary by him.  Luckily a good majority of the day involved beach time and sunshine, and he was game for that!  I took him to one of my very favourite beaches on the west coast of the island, Cala Carbo, where we rented two hamakas and a parasol, sipped cervezas, ate paella for lunch, and swam in the beautiful and warm Mediterranean.  I even took him on a short climb up the hill onto the cliffside that overlooks the beach, and I think he loved the sights of the twinkling Mediterranean, the magical rock called Es Vedra, and the Balearic cliffside as much as I did and always have.

 
soaking up some rays

 
Cala Carbo

A little video clip just to show you the scenery:

After a lazy few hours at this very pretty beach, I decided it was time to change to something a little more upbeat and Ibizenken (sp?): Ses Salines and Sa Trinxa Beach Bar.  We drove across the island to the southern most tip, and found rock star parking just outside the packed parking lot - apparently there were tons of people on the island for the closing parties and the number of cars parked in the bushes and along the road way proved it!  Because we arrived relatively late in the day (4:00ish), the beach was full with hardly any room to walk let alone lay out.  But we managed to squeeze out enough room for two more towels, and then layed down to watch all the people and listen to the funky beats that the resident DJ was spinning.  Funnily enough, another friend of mine, Ralf, who I met when I was in Ibiza two years ago and who I have stayed in touch, also happened to be at the same beach not too far away from where we layed our towels.  I waved and walked over to him, the both of us laughing as we greeted one another with a warm hug, saying that the island was just too small of a place!

 
Ses Salines

Sa Trinxa
a very happenin' beach bar at Ses Salines

 a packed beach

After a few more hours of laying out and talking about everything under the sun (literally! Ries and I never run short of things to talk about), I asked Ries if he felt like watching the sunset.  I had just the perfect place in mind - the cliffside above Cala D'Hort.  I knew exactly the little dirt road to get there too, so off we went in my little Alfa Romeo.  Dang, I had a lot of fun driving that car!

I had shared the same cliff top with my ex a few years ago, and even though I knew it was our special place then, I analyzed the situation very unsympathetically and came to the conclusion that that cliff and the view that comes with it wasn't just "our" special place.  This fact was proven to me as Ries and I walked through the sage brush across the cliff top, and said "hola" to a several different people who had also found that little dirt road and decided to take in the sunset in the exact same spot.  A group of Germans who wouldn't stop talking stood several meters away, while a Spanish couple had brought their folding chairs and had seemingly gotten there early, perched in the best location for the sunset.  Another couple further along the cliffside towards the point were eagerly snapping pictures.  Certainly this place is my place now as much as it was "our" place then, and it belongs to everyone else who comes here now, too.  I took a quiet stroll by myself, leaving Ries to sit and contemplate his own journey, and I once again battled a little demon who I actually knew would be waiting for me there.  I found him quite easily, gave him the respectful nod that he deserved, and then wound up and round-house kicked him over the cliffside, nice and hard!!  I sniffed, wiped away a tear, and then went back to sit with Ries.  We both sat in meditative silence together and we watched the sun go down, heard the wind whisper it's love for us, and felt the calm of Es Vedra wash over us both.

 
The view of Es Vedra, and the beautiful sunset on Ibiza

The place I go to in my mind when I need to relieve stress


Destino's Tapas Bar, San Jose, Ibiza
The best restaurant on the island for tapas

By the time the sun set we were STARVING!  Fortunately for me, and being the Aquarian that I am, I had thought ahead and had called to reserve a table for two.  Even then the restaurant was so busy that we had to wait a half an hour for our table.  I wonder if they didn't do that on purpose, because inevitably it made our eyes bigger than our stomachs, and we ordered several yummy dishes and drank several yummy cerveza's (Ries) and rose vino's (me).   The food was, as always, amazing.  I highly recommend this restaurant if you ever go to Ibiza and you only have one night there.  This place is not to be missed!

OMG!  Destino's!

If Ries wasn't already happy, he sure was after our meal at Destino's!

That evening, and since Ries had flown over especially for it, we attended Tiesto's Closing Party at Privilege.  We were very much looking forward to shacking our asses and having a fun evening, but alas, I have to report that the closing party SUCKED!  There, I said it.  It's true.  Our dear wonderful DJ Tiesto is very talented and creative indeed, and has been trying a new type of trance music out as of late, and I was horrified to discover this.  You can't even dance to it.  It was crap.  Privilege, the world's largest night club, is a sight to see for sure, with amazing light shows and dancing girls, acrobats and streamers exploding from the sky.  But the music?  S.U.C.K.E.D.  Sorry Tiesto.  If you're reading this then "Bravo" for branching out and doing what is your right as an Artist.  But BOOO for not making it dance worthy.  Shame!

It was cool to be there with the rest of the island though...

... and we did really like the light show...

... and the Las Vegas Show Girls...

... and the acrobats...

Two years ago when I went to Tiesto's Closing Party it was such a great time!  I danced all night and met tons of great people (remember the two guys from Argentina?).  This time though it was a definite downer.  Wow.  Don't worry - I got over it.   :)

After Ries flew home to Holland the next day, I let myself coast without a watch or a schedule of any kind.  Over the next couple of days I had time to visit my friend Alok another time, strolled through Ibiza town and did some shopping a couple of times, found new little out of the way places that had popped up there in the last two years, and finally got back in sync with the energy of the island.  I explored roads that I'd never been down before, continued to speak Spanish all day long and read Spanish newspapers whenever I'd stop for a cafe solo or Tinto de Verano.  I also spent another day beach hopping, watching people, and I did get a chance to meet with Ralf back at Sa Trinxa for a lazy afternoon with some of his friends who also live on the island.  I made friends with the owners of the hotel I was staying at, I got really good at driving a stick-shift again, discovered my cocky, aggressive, fast-paced Ibiza style again (you better move fast to keep up with the traffic on Ibiza, or get honked at by six different cars for simply pulling a Vancouver U-ey), chatted with several women who owned boutiques in Ibiza Town, sat by the hotel pool and ate melon, fresh croissants, and ripe figs for breakfast, and generally gave myself the right to be a leisurely tourist for a change!  At the end of my four days there, I am happy to report that the place I thought I knew so well hasn't changed all that much, and I still, thankfully, feel right at home there.  I am a part of that island.  I knew it all along I guess.  Maybe I just needed to go back and figure it out for myself?

For my last night there, I took a well-needed siesta and woke up again at 1:00 a.m.  By 1:50 I had arrived at "Space", one of Ibiza's hottest clubs and host to the "BE" Closing Party, featuring Markus Schultz and Armin van Buuren, two of my favourite DJ's.  I had been to a Closing Party at Space two years agao and it was an absolute slop fest.  This year though, while it was jam-packed, was pretty dang civilized and enjoyable.  By 2:00 a.m. Markus was on and I had my rum and coke in hand and was eagerly pushing my way towards the front of the Main Room.  Hey look, if you ever want to feel liberated, just fly to Ibiza and vacation on your own and go to a massive night club on your own.  Add a little Spanish language to the mix and then you'll realize how friggin' cool  you really are!  :)

 
MARKUS! droooool...

Both Markus and Armin had this really psychedelic light show going on


a very happy crowd at Space
(No red-necks here, bar brawls are unheard of)

Okay here is another video I took, this time of Markus Schultz!
I admit that the music is a little warped and loud at the beginning, but JUST DEAL WITH IT, ok?!
It's a cool show.  You'll wish you were there...


 
And of course no trance party is complete without AVB!

Why does he always have to be so darn cute?


I went to the club by myself, it's true. I was having a completely good time mixing with people from all over the world, and was reminded very quickly that if you get too close to a Spaniard he'll stick his tongue down your throat!  Not sure how, but I found myself gravitating towards the Dutch again.  I know them by their height, the mischief in their eyes, and by how friendly and inviting they are when you bump into them.  And do the Dutch ever know how to party!  Two thumbs up for the BE Closing Party, 2011! 

After getting home in the wee hours of the morning and sleeping in till late the next day, I sat by the pool one last time before catching an evening flight back to Barcelona.  I stomped around The Ramblas for a bit before heading back to the hotel room I'd rented for a night, just off of Plaza Catalunya.  I was bagged!  Early the very next day I was back at the airport for my flight to Frankfurt, and then Vancouver.  My two weeks in Spain went by way too fast!  But I'm glad I did end up going back to Ibiza, and I'm glad that I made my peace with those demons.  I realized what I already knew: that I really do love the place and a piece of it belongs to me and will always remain in my heart.  And this time I realized I love it all for my own reasons. 

My memories are my own.   So is my reality.  :)

Charleen xo

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

More Fun in the Sun

Even though I am now writing this posting from my little dining room table, back home in my apartment in rainy Vancouver, I think it is worthwhile to say a few things about the conclusion of my recent trip back to Espana. 

If I haven't mentioned it before, now is a good time to say thank you to my good friend, Alok, who joined me in Sevilla.  We took in a lot of the sights together, and we also did a lot by ourselves.  In the afternoons we'd meet up for luncheon tapas or hang out by the pool at my hotel, which was really the only place one could hang in the Andalusian heat.  Alok has proven to be one of my greatest friends, a fellow who is both a spiritualist and a hedonist - a guy after my own heart.  I think we've both supported one another through times where we were each questionioning our own paths, and it always helps to be able to bend the ear of someone who you know well and can trust.  Alok is this kind of friend to me, and I love him dearly.

Alok and me at lunch at a Cerveceria
(notice how much wev are sweating?  Yes, it was dang hot!)

The Basilica de la Macarena - right behind my hotel!
A 17th Century landmark

 The Muralla -
a portion of the old fortified walls that once surrounded the city
still standing in The Macarena

 One of the old gates

 Sunbathing or finding shade by the rooftop pool

Each morning the bells on the Basilica de la Macarena would ring loudly and could easily be heard from inside my hotel room.  It would bring a smile to my face every time, reminding me to stomp my feet on the ground or pinch myself so that I would know that I wasn't walking around in a dream.  I felt so invigorated, so energized during my stay in Sevilla.  Everything about the city is alive, as if vibrating to a happy tune that only Sevillanos can hear.  Well, I could hear it too and was thrilled with each and every sight, smell, touch, person I encountered there.  If Alok wasn't digging my pace, we'd simply meet up for a couple of hours here or there, grabbing a quick bite or a Tinto de Verano on the run.  One afternoon, after a cool dip in the pool, we decided to try our hand at the city's transit system, and took a bus out to view the Plaza de Espana.  At 5:00 in the afternoon I knew it would be ferociously hot out, but I wanted the light of the day to take pictures with, so Alok humoured me and came along for the fun of it.

Quiet Parras Street during afternoon siesta

Although the architecture looks like it could be ancient, Plaza de Espana is really just a toddler of a monument which dates back to it's creation in 1929 for the Ibero-American Esposition, where it was used as the Spanish Pavillion.  Inspired from the Renaissance, it is a row of pillars and towers portioned off into each region of Spain.  There were plenty more tiles, archways and bold bright colours to amuse myself with, but 43 degrees felt like 50, as the Plaza is almost entirely made from concrete and has very little shade.  Alok waited in the shade of its hallways while I wandered from one end to the other forcing myself to not mind the heat.  I had prepared myself mentally for it.

 



I found Sevilla!

Check out this video!  Great acoustics at Plaza de Espana!

After the heat of the Plaza de Espana, Alok took me walking in cool shade of the Jardines de Murillo which were originally the orchards behind the Alcazar.  The Jardines de Murillo border on a part of Sevilla's most famous barrios, Barrio Santa Cruz; the old Jewish Quarters.  Alok and I had a find time wandering the maze of streets which most tourists to Sevilla will try to find some time to explore.  Some of its streets were packed with tourists all vying for the best seat at an outdoor table, but it was easy to take a little detour down a vacant path where sometimes I could touch the buildings on either side of it simply by stretching out my arms!  It was so cool to think of myself roaming the same streets that Christopher Columbus once did, and I could imagine the romantic Don Juan briskly walking through its alleyways or climbing over verandas to entice the ladies of Sevilla.  Did you know that during the Spanish Golden Age, "Galanteadores" (Spanish for "gallants" or "seducers") were very common.  No one can say for sure, but it is estimated that at that time over half of the women in some of the neighbourhoods were widowed or abandoned, and this was because of either war or colonization.  I personally think that if temperatures in the 1500's were anything close to the same as they were here now in the early part of September 2011, it would not have been difficult to find a lovely damsel to play with each and every night.  In Sevilla, well, it seems to be quite normal!  Yay!



a narrow lane in Santa Cruz



Plaza Dona Elvira -
one of the many cute squares in Santa Cruz

Restaurants mercifully mist their customers with cool water



Alok
Still sweating and smiling!

On my last day in Sevilla, I decided to do two last things: go over to the other side of the river to Triana to search for Ceramics, and go tour the Bullring!

Triana:
on the other side of the river it is the centre of the ceramic trade,
and packed full of trendy restaurants and fun bars

Shopping at Plaza de Altozano

Alfareria - "Ceramics Street"

And of course, you have to visit the Bullring...

Plaza de Toros - Sevilla

They were setting up for some event, hence all the tables.
It was amazing to realize that you are so close to the floor!
There wouldn't be a poor seat in the house

Inside the arena there is a museum, complete with the most famous of bull's heads!
Even the head of the MOTHER of one of the most famous bulls was mounted!
Sheesh.

After spending some time in Sevilla, I have to admit that I think watching a live bullfight would have been the icing on the cake!  However, the fights are held only once each week, on Sunday afternoons at 5:30, and I had unknowingly booked my departure for 2:00 pm!  Oh well, this I can definitely do next time!

To finish up my trip to Sevilla, Alok and I watched a semi-private flamenco show in the comforts of the garden of my hotel.  Each member of the entourage was brilliant - a singer, guitar player and dancer.  Alok and I sipped cava and ate a light meal of fresh bread, olives, melon with jamon, and queso while watching the performance.  Afterwards he and I walked over to the Almeda de Hercules, which was created back in the 1500's, again during Sevilla's Golden Age.  The Almeda de Hercules is probably one of Sevilla's liveliest plazas and it's full of cafes and bars, and even tiny playgrounds for all the kids who go with their parents and stay out till all hours of the night, too.  It was only about a five minutes walk from my hotel.

A fantastic performance at Hotel San Gil

 Two very cute Sevillano children, playing at Almeda de Hercules

One of the many bars in Triana

Then I decided on one last hoorah, and went out to Triana again to seek out the best Sevillano bars.  I went to one traditional bar where the band played flamenco, and then after an hour switched seats with another band.  There were people of all ages out for this.  In one corner of the room it very easily could have been my grandparents and their friends out for a night on the town, all dressed up and ready to dance.  Beside me a younger woman who looked to be 21 or 22 years of age, all decked out and arm in arm with her cute boyfriend, both coming to have fun and be a part of what seemed to be a regular Saturday night party.  I watched this for awhile by myself, and then after kicking around the neighbourhood for a while, towards the end of the night I wound up back at Casa Anselma's, where it was even more packed (and sweaty!) than it was two nights before!

It's not difficult to meet and party with new friends in Sevilla!
Yolanda, Marco, Miguel, and me
Good times, good times!

I was sad to leave Sevilla but had to catch a flight to Ibiza.  After all the walking I'd done during my time there, I was ready for some lazy beach time anyways.  I know I'll return, and next time I think I'll stay a good long while, and really become a true Seviallana. 

Love, Charleen xo

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Si, Sevilla!!


“Sevilla’s moto appears all over the city.  It consists of two syllables; “No” and “Do”, with a skein of wool between them which looks like the figure 8.  It’s a play on words.
The Spanish for skein is “medeja”.  It is said that in the 11th century, King Alfonso the Wise decided that the warring had gone on too long and made a truce with the Moors.  His hot-blooded son, Sancho, rebelled and started a civil war.  Most of Spain sided with his son.  But not Sevilla.  To thank the City, King Alfonso declared “no ma dejado”, which means “you did not desert me”.  The phrase stuck and the motto “No Madeja Do” was created. “

The city I've always wanted to visit, and have had at least two opportunities to do so which for some reason fell through, is Sevilla, Andalusia.  (pronounced "Sev-ee-ya").  This time around I made it THE priority for this trip abroad.  For those of you who don't know, Sevilla is the capital of Andalusia and the province of Sevilla in southern Spain.  Sevillanos will boast that once you've been to their city, there will be no need to go anywhere else - their city has it all!  Delicious dining, cultural performances, stylish shopping, never ending nightlife, fresh fruit and vegetables all grown in the warm Sevillian sunshine... Sevilla has it all.  Long had I heard stories of extremely hot temperatures mixed with extremely warm-hearted people, beautiful flamenco dancers, and romantic "Don Juan's" at every place you walk into.  Well I am here to tell the truth about these reports: they are all correct!

Flying in on a Wednesday afternoon, I step off the tarmac and am hit by a waft of heat that answered my most immediate question: "How hot does it really get in Sevilla?"  I don't mind though, as I have been prepared for this change in physical and mental attitude.  I feel the corners of my mouth start rounding up into a smile as I walk through to the baggage claim, grabbing my suitcase as it comes off the conveyor exactly as I'm walking up to it.  Uh huh, definitely this is good timing.  I'm definitely supposed to be here right now, I think to myself.

When in Rome, do like the Romans.  I always stick by this moto as it helps me to adjust to different cultures and mentalities.  I quickly adapt to the loud, energetic and happy mood around me, noting the obvious difference between those living in Barcelona and those living in Sevilla.  Barcelona is a cosmopolitan city, and people from all over the world live there.  Sevilla on the other hand feels absolutely authetic, like the people seem to have been born from the warmth of the earth itself.  There is a pride here that has nothing to do with arrogance at all.  It is very real.  The people are extremely social, unafraid, and strong.


I wait in a long line-up at the airport for a cab to take me to my very cool hotel, Hotel San Gil.  I had booked this place because the reviews I read were really good, but also because it wasn't that expensive at all and I good a good deal on it through Expedia.  The reviews say it's a 3-star hotel, but it is not.  It is a 4-star hotel by far, a boutique hotel on the edge of the centre of town, about a 20 minute walk to all the attractions.  My German friend, Alok, is waiting for me at my hotel, as he has arrived two days ahead of me and already has a head-start on some of the sightseeing.  It is good to see him and we give one another a warm hug.  I haven't seen Alok since 2009, but we have become good friends, skyping about once a month for the last two years.  I am glad that he has been able to re-arrange his vacation schedule to make it to Sevilla at the same time as me.  I am excited when I get in, but still really jet-lagged.  I take a quick siesta in my cool, air-conditioned room which is located on the back side (the newly constructed and quiet side of the building), and then quickly get ready to head out with Alok. 


The centre of Sevilla is considered to have 5 neighbourhoods which are worthy of seeing: Santa Cruz, Centro, Triana, Almeda, and La Macarena.  I am staying in La Macarena, a barrio full of narrow streets and old churches, and tons of local shopping.  I immediately start to get lost as I follow Alok through the winding street.  Luckily Alok's sense of direction is excellent, and with me always having my map in my hand, together we find our way through to the Centro.  I am immediately surprised at how lively the city is.  Even though it is 40 degrees outside, people of all ages are out wandering the streets, shopping, or standing at cerveceria's and eating tapas in groups.  There are plenty of tourists too, and I get the feeling that they have all accepted the heat of this city as easily as I have.  "We were warned, now bring it!"  I take pictures every couple of metres it seems, already feeling like I need to grab every second and contain it so that I never forget the sense of liveliness, the heat, the colours, the sounds.






Alok showed me around and commented about the history of the city, and I thought to myself  "Sheesh, you've learned this all in only two days??"  Then after a couple of hours of walking, we turned back towards the Macarena for a bite of dinner (tapas, of course) and a beverage (tinto de verano, of course).  I had read in my guide book that tapas bars are abundant and the way to go for quick eats, and they weren't exaggerating.  According to stories, a tapa was originally just a small dish of food that a barman would place on top of your glass to keep the flies out of it!  Hence the name, which actually means "lid" in Spanish.  Some tapas only come in meda-racions (half a plateful) or racions (a plate full).  Normally, one only orders one or two tapas and they are content.  Eating huge portions just isn't the thing to do here, not like in Canada where we stuff our faces all day long.  Tapas bars are on every street, sometimes several of them in one block, and they are quick and delicious.  "El Ambigu" was said to serve "typical" tapas, which didn't mean they weren't being delicious and creative!  No way!  It was a very good introduction to tapas feasting in Sevilla, I'd say.  It was 10:00 pm and the sweat was still trickling down my back as we sat down at one of the outdoor tables.  Impromtu flamenco singing and clapping broke out with a small group of friends at a bar across the street.  Ah, Sevilla.


El Ambigu

mmm, Tinto de Verano and tapas


The next morning I was up bright and early and ready to start ticking off my list of sights to see.  Alok met me for breakfast, and then together we walked back into town because I had made up my mind to see the Cathedral, Giralda (the tower within the Cathedral), and the Reales Alcazares Palace and Gardens.  In Sevilla you have to get things done before the siesta hours, which are 2:00 pm - 5:00 pm, because it is just too dang hot to stay out in the middle of the afternoon.  We walked to the Santa Iglesia Cathedral which pretty much dominates Sevilla's skyline.  We got there just before it officially opened to the public, so it was relatively quiet and Alok sat down to attend a mass while I wandered about aimlessly taking photos.  Of course I think it's important to go and visit such such an edificio, but I can't stay long in grand cathedrals as I start to feel dominated by the very large and invisible hand of God, which makes me just want to run outside screaming!  But the truth is that it was worth the squirming. 
 



After that we went (literally) across the street and started our tour of the Alcazar, Sevilla's royal palace and immaculate gardens that was built by Pedro I, king of Castile, during the 14th century.  It was a wonderful maze of architectural gardens and beautifully tiled rooms with high arching ceilings that had a Moorish influence even though at the time the Moors had long been conquered in Sevilla.  Apparently King Juan Carlos I and Queen Sophia of Spain still stay there whenever they visit Sevilla, although as tourists we would never have been allowed that deep into the palace. 

Alcazar Palace and Gardens





It was starting to get really hot out, and Alok wanted to go and view the weapons gallery.  Me though, my feet were getting super tired and I knew I'd just saved enough energy to go back to the Cathedral and climb the Giralda - the tower overlooking the entire city.  This one thing I knew I just had to do.  For some reason, without seeing Sevilla from above and absorbing the entire city in one view, I would never feel like I was really there.  After dreaming of coming to this city for so long, it all just felt a little too surreal!  So we separated and off I went amidst the masses of tourists and into the sunshine and heat which felt strangely hotter than the day before.  Or maybe it was just me and my thin Canadian blood?  I didn't know, but I forged on climbing the ramp all the way to the top of the Giralda.  It was so worth it!  This for me was the best of the three top sights to see in Sevilla.  It looked like to me still like it could have looked back in the days of Don Juan, the famous Seducer of Sevilla.  Sweat dripping down my face, I stood at all four sides and took pictures of the landscape, enamoured by every detail of it. 





By 2:00 pm it usually is way too hot to stay outside anymore, but most of the locals meet up at a tapas bar or Cerveceria to have a quick bite to eat, a beer, and some conversation with their friends.  Sevilla is one of the most liveliest city's I've ever been to, and even during siesta hours when the sun is beating down they are energetic and happy.  I was starving and searched for the first tapas place I could find.  Fortunately they are all over the place and one never has to search for long, nor do they have to wait for long to eat.  When I first got there it was impossible to find a vacant table, so I went up to the bar which was double-lined with people all talking loudly and shouting at the bartenders.  The way it's done here in Sevilla is to not worry so much about being polite, but to do whatever you can to get the attention of the waiter or bartender as quickly as you can, otherwise you won't get any service at all!  I watched the locals; they seemed to glide in without any problems and could be eating a hot tapa of calamari and drinking a cold glass of beer within a couple of minutes.  Well, it's like I said before: when in Rome, do like the Romans!  So I squeezed myself in at the bar, flagged a bartender and ordered my small lunchtime meal.  Within a minute I had both an orange Fanta and a little dish of calamari sitting infront of me.  What a way to go! The key here is not to be too concerned when the waiter looks stressed.  He IS stressed but that's not your problem. It takes a certain kind of man to have a job serving at a tapas bar.  He's a multi-tasking and can manoeuver fast.  He's dang good at it!  I love the manner in which lunchtime is done here, and it's always fun just to be in the thick of the action, feeling the hot vibe of the Sevillanos.  This is how it's done in the early evenings after siesta as well, before dinner time which is normally eaten about 10:00 pm.  All the locals come out of the woodwork after their work day is finished to continue their socializing and drinking and eating all at the same time.  Every single plaza in the city is full of people of all ages, and it is loud and social without being obnoxious or rude anyone.  It is good fun!  In Sevilla they go out late, and they stay out to the early hours of the morning.  Heck, in Canada we'd start a riot if we were as happy and lively as the Sevillanos!  It must be the sunshine that gives them all the extra energy they have!

Standing around eating tapas at lunchtime at a Cerveceria

Watch this video I took of the bartenders at a bar in Plaza San Salvador.  They are awesome!



Alok and I enjoying evening beverages and tapas in Plaza San Salvador on a Thursday eve


Plaza San Salvador 
The place to meet up with your friends any night of the week! 
It's very loud and happy! 
Watch this little clip below so you can hear it:


Later that evening and feeling tipsy, I decided that "tonight" would be as good a time as any to go to Casa Anselma, a place I'd heard about that was over on the other side of the bridge, in Triana, for great impromptu flamenco.  As soon as I walked in the place I knew I'd be staying all night.  The doors didn't open until 11:00 pm, and I got there just before midnight.  All the seats in the house were already taken and it was standing room only.  I went up to the bar and grabbed another delicious glass of Stella, and then went to secure a space of my own standing in the back row of the house.  There is no air conditioning in these little places, but they have several fans that blare wind at you and provide an adequate amount of breeze.  Even with all the fans the sweating never stops.  Anselma in a local Sevillana who is famous in her own right.  Casa Anselma doesn't even have a sign over it's entry - it doesn't need one to attract customers.  Her place packs out every night of the week mostly with local enthusiasts, but there were a couple of tourists like me, too.  You get into the place and Anselma, this short, beautiful, strong woman with big red lips and a boistrous voice, makes certain that everyone has a drink in their hand (or two!).  When she is sufficiently satisfied that everyone is well on their way, the musicians come out and start playing flamenco music with their guitars and singing.  The crowd knows some of the lyrics because traditional Spanish songs are also being played, and they sing along when they can.  Others clap flamenco style, and keep a fast beat making me wonder how the heck they can make their hands move so fast!  Me, I just kept on drinking and taking photos.  The atmosphere gets really heated really fast.  Sweating doesn't help to calm the mood, it only makes people hotter!  Well, you know as I said before, "When in Rome... "  It wasn't too long before a handsome Sevillano was on my shoulder offering to buy me another beer.  I said "yes" of course, which, in Seville, gives him full access to me for the night (apparently).  The happy crowd, the music, the sweating... if you want to know the truth I cried for a good part of the night.  Not full out bawling, no way!  But my eyes misted over and I dabbed at them frequently, that's how happy I was.  I was so moved, so charged with passion by just being there in this packed little place where the people were ALIVE!  To sit in an auditorium and listen to traditional and flamenco music anywhere else is just so boring in comparison, I can make that strong statement clearly now.  When you go to an informal flamenco bar in Sevilla (and most likely all of southern Spain), the people are charged with electricity and everyone hoots and hollars and gets involved.  But it wasn't so much flamenco as it was "Sevillana", and even if you aren't one of the few who dances The Sevillanas (a couple's folk dance that can be light and fun when two women dance together, but also a little flirtacious and seductive when a man and woman dance it), you can still feel every bit of passion and heat that's being created.  I truly felt I was more myself there that night than I do going out in Vancouver.  This is the type of socializing I need to do! 

This little link gives a brief description of The Sevillanas dance (which isn't really flamenco at all!)

At the end of the evening, the musicians closed with a traditional song to the Madonna, called Ave Maria.  It was the only time all night that the house was quiet, and this time I couldn't stop my emotions.  My fellow companion for the evening wiped my tears from my face and then kissed me passionately on the mouth.  And me, I just let him. 

A packed bar at Casa Anselma in Triana

Anselma sings a traditional Flamenco style song


A member of the audience, who obviously not Sevillana, becomes taken with happiness and passion, and gets up on the floor.  The music continues, the crowd gets more rambunctious!

These two videos show the atmosphere of the place and are only a couple of minutes in length.
(I have to apologize but the lighting was pretty low!)



a packed house

The handsome Sevillano buying another cervecza, and sweating

Although I was definitely a little worse for wear the next morning, I definitely thought it was worth it as it was a very memorable experiences.  That night out at the flamenco bar topped off everything that I've done so far in this city!  Oh, and by the way: the temperature has definitely been more than 40 degrees. On Thursday it was 43! Yesterday it was only 42!  This picture proves that I'm not exaggerating.


But I don't mind one bit.  The heat, the passion, the history and culture of this Andalucian city has won my heart over.  And this posting was only about the first two days of my journey here!  Dios Mio!  More to come soon!

Hasta entonces,
Charleen xo